Saturday, September 15, 2012

Greenhouse Hostel: My second home in Bangkok


Outdoor restaurant (my shot)

For the past five years, I have been traveling to the chaotic streets of Khao San Road every July to celebrate my birthday.

I have written so much about my experiences in Thailand but it just struck me that I haven't shared anything about the place where I always stay whenever I am in Bangkok. The place, I call my second home.

Most backpackers descend to Khao San Road to look for the cheapest and most convenient location. But in my experience, I found hotels right along the street too noisy, and too expensive, ranging from 500 Baht to 1,200 Baht.

Perhaps it was luck or perhaps it was meant to be.

In Soi Rambuttri, a street parallel to Khao San Road, I found Greenhouse Hostel.

It was a simple hostel with very spartan amenities, when I first checked in. There are about 80 rooms that cater mostly to backpackers. There are airconditioned rooms, though for those who wanna get away from the Bangkok heat. As you know, temperature in Thailand averages 35 to 38 degrees Celsius.

Over the years though, the hostel has seen many changes. The travel agency in the ground floor was closed and in its place, computers were installed.


The new grille. Photo courtesy of Greenhouse

The simple cafe, became a full fledged grille.You can dine inside the airconditioned partition or you can dine alfresco style at the outdoor restaurant.

The acoustic singer every night, however, remains a constant attraction.

One of the reasons why I love Greenhouse so much is because of its laidback ambiance. I can easily strike a conversation with fellow travelers just by hanging at the outdoor resto without loud music bothering us.

The beer is pretty cheap too. Everything in Thailand is relatively cheaper, but Greenhouse is way cheaper.

While most hostels would use the newer facilities to jack up their prices, GreenHouse remains one of the most affordable hostels in Thailand. Room rates range from about 300 Baht or $10 for single rooms to 450 Baht for double airconditioned room.

If you have a tighter budget, you can opt for single rooms with fans for only 250 Baht.

Photo showing the closed travel agency

Greenhouse has been my constant accommodation in Bangkok, because of its cheaper rates but topnotch service.

The ladies at the reception also know me by now.

Located in Soi Rambuttri, the hotel is located in a quieter, more subdued street and the bars/clubs nearby also offer acoustic jamming sessions.

To get to the actual Khao San Road, you can take the Susie Walking Street, a passage filled with stores, massage parlors, tattoo and book shops.


Photo courtesy of Greenhouse

The place is also walking distance away from the Grand Palace so those wanting to visitg it, will have an added bonus.

Getting there is quite easy. Just say Soi Rambuttri and all taxi cabs know it.

If in case, the driver is dumber than usual, use the more prominent Viengtai Hotel as landmark since Greenhouse is almost in front of the hotel.






  



Monday, September 10, 2012

Surviving on coffee cups in Seoul

A starbucks in Seoul
I have a confession to make. I am not a coffee lover and nobody can influence me to like it.

In fact, I go to coffee shops sparingly, and in those occasions, I am probably after the wi-fi.

At times, when the entire office or my entire group of friends need their caffeine fix, I let myself be swayed to go to the nearest coffee house, but I order my preferred signature hot chocolate instead.

I can live without having a single coffee cup. The world would go on turning even if a global coffee holiday is declared.

But in my recent trip to the cold streets of Seoul, South Korea, I realized that in some parts of the world, coffee is a vital commodity, and it spells the difference between surviving or freezing in the biting cold.

I am used to cold weather. Thanks to previous visits to other countries during winter time, I am very much prepared for the unforgivingly cold weather in Seoul during early winter.

It can get really cold, and for most tourists coming from an equatorial country such as the Philippines, the change in climate can be quite disorienting. But not me.

I roamed the streets of Insadong and Gwanghwamun wearing only a light jacket and an inside shirt, despite the temperature dropping to 5 degrees.

I partied in Itaewon with fellow travelers with a thin leather jacket.

All along, I noticed the wide array of coffee shops in Seoul. When it comes to coffee, South koreans have a lot to choose from. Of course, there were Starbucks stores, but there were also Paris Bagguette, Blenz Coffee, Caffe Benne and Angels in Us in almost every block.

As a non-coffee lover, I found this to be really absurd. Do South Koreans consumer that much coffee?


Me in Seoul

I read somewhere that South Korea is in the mid-50s when it comes to countries with the largest coffee consumption per capita. In comparison, the Philippines is in the mid 90s.

Why? I don't really care, and I didn't put much thought about it.

Except for the slight drying of the skin brought about by the cold, which was easily remedied by Laneige moisturizing creams, my trip was problem free. I was able to visit as much tourist attraction as I wanted and I had a blast trying different restaurants in various shopping and tourist districts.


But on the night before I was supposed to fly out of Seoul, in the middle of Gangnam, things started to turn messy.

On a high with too much people sightseeing, I left my jacket and gloves at a restaurant. (This is completely acceptable since most its establishments are warm inside due to ondol or heaters).

I didn't have enough money to buy another jacket so I just decided to finish my wandering wearing only a shirt and a scarf. I was also too proud to buy a new pair of gloves.

But that was my biggest mistake. It wasn't too long before my body started to feel cold.



With each passing minute, millions of needles seem to prick my entire skin, as I slowly lose sensation in my bare hands.

My breathing became ragged and I started to shiver as I walk slowly around Gangnam.

An hour passed and my entire body was already frigid. I chanced upon a public thermometer and I realized that the temperature plummeted to about 4.4 degrees celsius.

Unable to bear the cold, I ran to the nearest Angel in Us coffee shop and ordered a big cup of searing cappuccino. 


As soon as I took my first sip, warmth spread all over my body. My body, which was almost as cold as ice, started to loosen up. Sip by sip, my body temperature returned to normal. My breathing became normal.

As night fell, the temperature fell even lower to 4 degrees and I couldn't help but be thankful for my temporary shelter for the protection it gave me.


I stayed in the coffe house for about two hours and by then, my body has normalized.

Without a choice, I left the coffee shop and braved the frigid weather heading to the nearest subway station. As soon as I got off, I ran at full speed towards the house I was staying at. There, I savored the warmth of the house, trying to forget the moment, I almost froze to death.

Still without a jacket and gloves, I survived my last day by ordering tall cups of coffee as I stroll around. Every two hours, my body would get really cold and I would grab another cup.

In a city as cold as Seoul, I realized that contrary to what I earlier suspected, the numerous coffee shops. mostly situated side by side, are not just part of a fad. Instead, it's a matter of survival.

I arrived in Seoul, without any passion for coffee.

But by the time I left, it's something I learned to appreciate and respect.